Tag: durmitor national park

Durmitor mountain: Devil’s lake

travel stories travel tips

Durmitor mountain: Devil’s lake

Once upon a time, in the years of the old legends, Greek Gods from Olympus mountain chose Durmitor to be their rest home. It’s known that in the old times Greeks lived in these parts, and it’s possible that they chose this mountain for their other Olympus. What can simple man say about this place of Gods and about all the region that surrounds it, watched out and protected by Gods themselves. The Gods care and protect it, together with fairies that live deep in the bosom of the mountain, with winged horses that fly from one peak to another.

Throughout its long history, many legends are told about Durmitor, its peaks, caves, lakes and heroes. I will tell you some of it, so when you visit this mountain and hear the thunder of horses in winter nights or fairies singing, you will know those are still all just stories and legends or maybe …?

Once upon a time, Jezera (Lakes, now large plateau), was all covered with pine forest. Then, a thunder roared, burned all the pines, and the wind blew the flames across the entire forest. The forest was then filled with all kinds of beasts and creatures. Beasts have fled to Durmitor, fairies to the clouds, and the devil, and his wife found the shelter in the lake, in the middle of Lakes. They made a delightful castle in the lake – all of the ice crystals and they live there to this day. This beautiful lake became a diabolical home, so they called it Devil’s lake. When you swim in it you can feel that it is the coldest Durmitor lake. It’s because the Ice Castle’s cold spreads everywhere. And when the young girl swims across the lake, the devil goes out from his castle, grabs her and drags her to the bottom, to his ice castle. If the boy swims, then the Devil’s wife grabs him and pulls him to her ice chamber at the bottom of the lake. Some say the devil usually occurs when the darkness falls, and even comes out on shore. Once they saw him in the form of a huge horse and sometimes he appears as the bull with huge horns. The bull eats a grass on the shore, passionately roars, blares and everything around him is trembling from his voice.

Beside the devil, there’s also a beautiful, red-coated horse. In the long, starry nights he emerged from the lake and made love to the mares from the flock of the celebrated Duke Momcilo, who lived nearby, in the town of Pirlitor. After their love act being consummated, he would kick the mare in the stomach to make her loose the fruit of their love act. But, once, when he tried to kick the mare, shepards came from the nearby hills, and forced a horse to return to his lake. The mare gave birth to the winged horse, named Jabucilo, on whose back Duke Momcilo flew from Pirlitor to Durmitor.

Durmitor mountain is the cradle of legends, the cradle of spiritual energy which makes me feel that I can be anything. That I can be the one with  Mother Nature, its leaves, water, sounds. That I can be endless. Growing up in the lap of the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world is an enormous honor. It’s a fortune for a little girl to be the fairy and to stay the fairy in this big, cruel world and to have all the mountain where she can escape when she needs a home.

When you go from Zabljak to the direction of Niksic, on the ninth kilometer you will see Vrazje jezero (Devil’s lake ), known as a cradle of winged horses.

Durmitor mountain: fairytales of valley Lomni do

travel stories travel tips

Durmitor mountain: fairytales of valley Lomni do

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

If we would transform our lives into a mosaic of moments, it would be the most valuable work in human history. Long time ago, from one dear book I have learned  that the mosaic is a guide for the personal legend. That legend that we all have, while confused and discouraged we are looking for meaning that is so simple and too large to be visible to the naked eye. Some of us feel that the only purpose is to live that legend and to be happy. When you are happy, your mother is happy, and your child , and your friend is happy, nature is happy, the universe, and God.

Yesterday morning I woke up, enjoyed my bath gel with the smell of olives, until the water became completely cold , stopped by to buy espresso and took a bus to Žabljak.

This morning I was at the place where I haven’t been for the years, where not many people walked for the years, but long time ago there were the hosts and housewives, and children, merchants and shepherds.

That’s the place hidden in the massive of Durmitor mountain, place  where important parts of my character were made, where you can hear the crickets, as they sit on your shoulder, where if you take a bit longer gaze into the mountains, you can see the spindly deer running.

I feel so peaceful there, like that is not the part of this world. It’s so pure and out of any evil. I’m safe there. I’m myself there. Fu**ing fairy there. J

Durmitor is stunning, every part of it (I would say it’s the most beautiful mountain in Montenegro), but Lomni do is special for me. All that peaks, that amazing valley, the view, the smell and one of my favorite lakes – Modro lake. Modro lake is placed 800 m far from the road Žabljak – Sedlo – Trsa. It’s is situated 11 km from Žabljak town. Its altitude is 1609 m, the surface is 7300 square meters. Maximum depth of the lake is 3,3 m. Its coast is long between 630 m and 700 m and is mostly stable during the year, without any decreasing and increasing of water level. The wildest part of lake is on its southern side, below the rocky massif of Ranisava peak.

Man is a part of nature, and his war against nature is inevitably a war against himself, so this place, more than others, make you be in the peace with yourself, and every single person should feel the way I feel when I’m sitting on the rock above Modro lake, looking at the most beautiful scenery in the world. Feel endless. Small and infinite at the same time, cause we are small and we are infinite.

Today, when I got back to Žabljak, I felt something like that. On my way to buy bread, in front of the shop, on the bench was guy in his late twenties, with bright eyes, the beard, the dirty clothes, with hiking shoes and a huge backpack. He followed me with curious eyewink, and I wondered if he is traveling alone, from which point on the globe he arrived, if he was hungry. If he felt good in Montenegro, in Zabljak. With bread I bought Snickers, because when I was on the mountain in these boots and with that backpack, it was certainly the best snack in the world. I asked him if he was tired, I found out that his country is not that far away from Montenegro (Bulgaria) and gave him a candy bar. I will describe his face properly if I tell you to imagine Santa Claus when he was young – pretty face, good-natured, sparkling eyes and the beard – perhaps as many inches as cities he visited. He rolled a cigarette for me, we talked for a long time, and then parted .

My house smelled of homemade cookies with cinnamon, I made coffee with milk, listened I’m into you on repeat and smiled paying tribute to a wonderful, wonderful day.

 

10522039_10202577791703036_6067429366069977606_n10462649_10202577792263050_2165450743122836552_n10322774_695527880495671_249259091509084797_n11908350_10202577804303351_998251221826740119_n936059_1520714831490887_7517673096533075756_n10407731_10202577799783238_6919849426874691023_n281901_1520271561535214_5914936602019555811_n

 

Kada bi smo živote pretvorili u mozaik momenata, to bi bila najvrijednija djela u ljudskoj istoriji. Davno sam iz jedne drage knjige naucila da je taj mozaik putokaz za ličnu legendu. Onu koju imamo svi dok zbunjeno i obeshrabljeno jurcamo trgajući za smislom koji je tako jednostavan i prevelik da bi bio vidljiv golim okom. Samo neki od nas osjete da je jedini smisao proživjeti svoju legendu i samim tim biti srećan. Kada si srećan i tvoja majka je srećna, i tvoje dijete, i prijatelj ti je srećan, i priroda je srećna, i univerzum, i Bog, i sve čije si je srećno.

Juče ujutru sam se probudila, uživala u kupci sa mirisom maslina, sve dok voda nije postala potpuno hladna, svratila po espresso za ponijeti i sjela na bus za Žabljak.

Ovog jutra sam se našla na mjestu na kom nisam bila godinama, na koje nije mnogo ljudi kročilo godinama, a nekada je tamo bilo domaćina i domaćica, i djece i trgovaca i pastira.

To je mjesto skriveno u masivu Durmitora, mjesto gdje sam izgradila bitne dijelove svoje ličnosti, gdje se cvrčci čuju kao da ti sjede na ramenu, gdje ćeš ako se malo duže zagledaš u pravcu šume ugledati vretenastu srnu u trku.

Osjećam se tako mirno na tom mjestu, kao da ono nije dio baš ovog svijeta. Tako je čisto i izvan svakog zla. Sigurna sam tamo. Svoja sam tamo. Je*ena vila sam tamo.

Durmitor je nevjerovatan, svaki dio njega (rekla bih, najljepša planina Crne Gore), ali Lomni do je posebno mjesto za mene. Svi ti vrhovi, predivna dolina, taj pogled, miris i jedno od mojih najdražih jezera – Modro jezero. Modro jezero je skriveno 800m od puta Zabljak – Sedlo – Trsa, na 11km od Zabljaka.

Nalazi se na visini od 1609m, dok mu je površina 7300m2. Maksimalna dubina jezera je 3,3m. Obala mu je duga izmedju 630 i 700m. Tokom godine je stabilno i nema znatnih promjena nivoa vode u zavisnosti od godišnjeg doba.

Čovjek je dio prirode i svaki rat sa prirodom, rat je sa samim sobom, a ovo mjesto, više nego druga, čini da budeš u miru sa sobom. Svako bi se trebao osjećati onako kako se ja osjećam kada sjedim na stijeni iznasd Modrog jezera, posmatrajući najljepšu panorama svijeta. Osjećati beskraj u sebi. Jer smo tako mli, a tako beskrajni. Tako divni.

Danas, kad sam se vratila na Žabljak, osjetila sam nešto slično tome. Krećem da kupim hleb, a ispred radnje, na klupi, sjedi momak u kasnim dvadesetim, svijetlih očiju, sa bradom, u ishabanoj odjeći, planinarskim cipelama i sa ogromnim ruksakom. Radoznalo me prati pogledom, a ja se pitam da li putuje sam, sa koje je tačke na globusu stigao, da li je gladan. Uz hleb kupujem i Snickers, jer kada sam ja na planini u takvim cipelama i sa takvim ruksakom, to je zasigurno najbolji zalogaj na svijetu. Pitala sam ga da li je umoran, saznala da njegova zemlja i nije tako daleko, iz Bugarske je i poklonila mu čokoladicu. Njegovo lice ću najbolje opisati ako vam kažem da zamislite Deda Mraza kad je bio mlad – lijepo lice, dobroćudno, svjetlucave oči i brada – možda onoliko centimetara koliko gradova. Smotao je cigaretu za mene, pričali smo jako dugo, a onda se rastali.

Moja kuća je mirisala na domaće kolače sa cimetom, skuvala sam kafu sa mnogo mlijeka, pustila I’m into you na repeat i osmjehnula se odajući počast predivnom danu.

 

 

 

 

 

Durmitor Ice cave: Hidden winter in Montenegro

travel stories travel tips

Durmitor Ice cave: Hidden winter in Montenegro

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I was born and raised on Durmitor Mountain and I’m so grateful that I have had the opportunity to be surrounded by the art of Mother Nature for so long. I think that the contours of the mountains, glaciers, lakes, mountain plants and that crispy air has had a big impact on who I am today. My house is located near the entrance of the Durmitor National Park.

A few days ago we had planned something for this morning. If you live in Zabljak, either to go to the shop, have a coffee in some of the local places (Kino pub and sometimes Or’o – when they don’t play shitty music) or have a walk with a friend, you always see the peaks of Durmitor, sometimes illuminated by the sun, sometimes immersed in fog. But they are always there to remind you that you are not where you should be. The Mountain is calling. After a few warnings, we decided to climb up to one of my favorite places on Durmitor. If I may choose a favorite.

If you look from Zabljak (1456 m) town (highest town in the Balkans) you will notice easily on the right side of Durmitor massif, one peak with a very special outlook and form which makes it a very important part of Durmitor’s panorama. Because of it’s rounded peak, Durmitorians gave this peak the name “Obla Glava”(Rounded head). This peak is very famous because of Ledena Pecina (Ice Cave), which is placed on the NE side of the Obla Glava massif. The ice cave is the natural beauty of Durmitor National Park. In this cave there are beautiful stalactite and stalagmite formations made of ice. It’s one of the closest things to the Zabljak that one should visit on Durmitor, so we decided to do it. Black lake is the starting point for a lot of trips on Durmitor, so, when we woke up, and finished our breakfast, we went to the Black lake, which is located 2 km from the center of Zabljak. The easiest and the most beautiful way that you can reach the Ice cave is via katun Lokvice (summer pasture), where you can see the most diverse landscapes as you go on. The road is not overly demanding, and you need 3 hours to reach the cave. We went a little bit longer this time and went a more difficult route by Crno Jezero (Black lake) (1416 m) – Jaksica Mlin (1514 m) – Stari Katun (1931 m) – Ledena Pecina (Ice Cave) (2303 m). This hike is not difficult, but we are taking breaks.

The Ice cave is our goal, but each step that we are making to reach that goal is so delightful that we have to stop and save it somewhere in our heads to always have that picture with us. And of course, with every step we can see spomenak (forget me not), my favorite flower. I have to pay attention to that beauty and Violeta as my friend is urging me to over and over again. And I swear to you, anywhere else food is not as tasty as when you take it up the mountain. Especially chocolate. I always carry chocolate, because it can give me strength in the moment. The best chocolate you can find in Montenegro is Najljepse zelje, remember that. Any place that you choose is wonderful, because it’s Durmitor, but this one I particularly like.

My favorite childhood memory is that morning, when I open my eyes and peer through the window to see snow topped pine trees and a metre white-layer of snow that has fallen over one night. I still remember that smell of winter and sparkling snow that I loved so much. One morning, every year when the end of winter came, I would take a plastic bowl and fill it with snow and keep it in the freezer until next winter. And then came the moment when I realized that Durmitor does that for me; somewhere in his massive body he carefully preserved the eternal winter, winter that we visit to this autumn day.

When we came to the Ice cave we were so tired. All the way to the cave is quite steep, so we sat down and took out all the food that we brought and ate the greater part of it and drank beer, Niksicko beer. Then it was time to get down there. At the entrance, which is pretty steep and covered with snow, it’s great if you have a rope, which we had, but it is not necessary. You can just dig your shoes into the snow. For this tour you don’t need anything more than hiking shoes, beer and chocolate.

We were greeted by a hall of eternal ice and snow. At the bottom of the cave, there are numerous icy stalagmites, some small, and some a few meters high. At the end of the summer season they are smaller, as they were this time. We walked around the stalagmites and breathed the cold air that looked like cigarette smoke. We were in there for about ten minutes. Two of us, one guy from Zabljak and a bunch of Russians. Before we came out of the cave, we sang Russian songs, while the cave echoed our voices and we were all happy and very calm. All our problems were 2160m below us. That’s why we love the mountain.

We decided to come down over the summer pasture of Vuk Kovacevic, which is a little easier and a shorter way, but delightful. If you pass this way (Katun Lokvice), come and visit Vuk. He lives there in the mountains and does not speak English, but people can make some kind of conversation in Serbian, Russian, or simply gestures; very interesting man. I mean, he lives high in the mountain all by himself. So, if you are on Durmitor and want to go to this magical place, you don’t need a guide, a map is enough. This is one of the shortest, but not less impressive tours. In September hiking is more impressive than cave. So, if you can, do it in the spring or beginning of summer. We did it in September and it was beautiful, but the snow had melted. If you have just one opportunity to go there, choose the right time. I will share some photos with you, so you can see how it looks in autumn. Anyway, I think that the Ice cave is the perfect place if you want to find your moment out of time and out of space. In the heart of the most beautiful Montenegrin mountain.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Hotel Durmitor: Searching for trust in a city of rust

travel stories travel tips Uncategorized

Hotel Durmitor: Searching for trust in a city of rust

I’m a writer who never writes about nostalgia. About any kind of nostalgia.

A few nights ago, as it usually happens during the night, I was missing one’s hands.

Oh, how they knew to touch, to carry all the weight of my gray days on their palms. That night I almost felt them on my waist, on my skin, and everywhere my memories drifted. Even my memories are blind and deaf under the surge of nostalgia that I feel when I see him. And I see him often, even now when he’s on the other part of the country.

My novels, my poems are all based on love, passion and death. But not even during those nights could I ever write anything about nostalgia. It has always been a subject of which I had nothing to say. When it comes to overcoming and letting go, all I have to say is: keep quiet and put up with it, this too shall pass.

However, today I want to pay a tribute to something that is forgotten. Maybe it will be easier to write about when I’m not the forgotten one.

Or not.

1 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora2 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora3 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora4 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora

It is a national treasure of Montenegro, one of many that is left to decay and oblivion.

All my life it’s here, 300 meters from my house, and every day I’m the witness of it’s destruction. One collective suffering.

Back in the time Hotel Durmitor was wonderful, lively place, with 650 workers and a rich offer. Now, Hotel Durmitor is a ghost house.

5 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora6 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora7 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora8 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora

Montenegro is a beautiful country, but I think that there is no other nation where people care so little about their home. In general, unintelligent nation and insatiable government. They don’t sell the land anymore, now they sell the spirit and identity.

It seems that me and Hotel Durmitor, while drinking coffee in it’s ruined lobby, accept deterioration with the hope that the same will not happen with everything around us.

9 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora10 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora11 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora12 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora13 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora16 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora

The only thing that comforts me is that when their tits, brands, empty talk and deeply rooted nihilism rot, my mountain will still be there.

There’s a song that I’ve heard recently, so tender and harmless, such as those common morning coffees SOKO – First love never dies.

Dear melody fills the blue room, and it’s funny to me that I found it right here. In my life the concept of the blue room has always been a refuge.

15 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora

I close my eyes, I hear the birds and the trees, and beautiful, pastel curtains, the sound of fine crystal, the smell of fresh cakes and peace.

Here we are, quite alive.

I never let myself miss my past, to the past I can always go back. I go back often, to be reminded.

Remind myself what is the value of all what I have gave and lost.

Remind myself what is the value of what I still have.

Remind myself that I can’t be satisfied with wrong stories, cause I  know how I used to be loved.

14 - hotel durmitor zabljak crna gora